And probably part of the problem is that the TDA 7808 amplifier chip generates much more heat than the TDA 7803. That's another argument I've had with the seller. They say the 7808 is the same as the 7803, but I'm sure the TDA 7808 is a defective version of the TDA 7803 that generates a lot of heat and is only recommended for use with 4 ohms speakers. The TDA 7803, on the other hand, can handle 2 ohms speakers.
Dudu7 head unit reboots by itself
Wenn uch mir überlege wie groß die 2-Din Radios waren, und wie viel Platz nun hinter den Radios ist, könnte man sich vielleicht auch eine andere Kühllösung einfallen lassen.
Gestern hatten wir gerade einmal 20 Grad Celsius, das Armaturenbrett war natürlich warm durch die Sonne, aber der Lüfter hörte nicht auf zu laufen.
Temperatur vom Prozessor lag immer bei ca. 65 Grad Celsius und mehr.
Das habe ich selbst im Sommer mit dem ein Jahr alten DUDU7 NICHT gehabt. Vor allem habe ich bei dem alten DUDU7 den Lüfter niemals gehört, weil der so leise war.
Die neuen Lüfter sind dagegen laut wie Turbinen.
JhonnyD The fan I used is actually quieter than the original factory one. It's much more efficient because it has much greater height and pitch of the blades. The original one is only 7 mm thick. The impeller of the one I installed is 17 mm thick. It actually cools the aluminum and it seems to be sufficient to keep the CPU from exceeding operating temperature.. The factory one doesn't generate any cooling effect on the aluminum.
Arielnac Any reboot issues since the fan swap?
IamDefiler Only one. Since the rest of the time it worked fine, I don't associate that reboot with the same problem.
Arielnac I'm running TDA7808 device on 3ohm speakers since February and they are running fine. Haven't checked temperatures since I get no issues. However, the fan kicks more often, even now with external amplifier installed and no internal amp being used.
Must be some hiccups at the factory properly installing thermal solution or faulty fan.
abidali Hi. The factory fan spins correctly, but it doesn't generate enough airflow to prevent the aluminum from continuing to rise. I replaced the thermal solution with a 1mm-thick aluminum plate and thermal paste on both sides. It's much better than a thermal pad. It still wasn't enough until I replaced the fan. Wait until summer, when ambient temperatures are higher, to see if you start having problems.
I ordered this fan and will take photos of the internals when I have everything apart.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JK9GX6
- Edited
For those that are interested in the internals and what it will look like when replacing the fan in this manner.
Here is mine,
Arielnac
It looks like the fan pushes air into the Mekede case and vents out the slots.
For both silence and airflow, I'm looking at using a duct and standard 120mm PC case fan.
Does anyone know whether the little 12V fan from the factory is PWM or just on-off?
ManOfScience On and off at full speed. Therefore the little fan is loud as hell.
If you want PWM you need to buy a 12 Volt PWM module.
Yes, I will do a final decision after fully reassembling the dash. Right now the sound of the fan is too loud.
If the larger fan is necessary, I will certainly run a temperature sensor to control the fan speed, with a minimum speed set at inaudible.
Quick question, did changing the fan needed some kind of soldering? And I cant figure out how you guys screwed it; looks like colored plastiky screws. Do i need special screws or the noctua fan comes with it?
The stock fan is quite noisy, my screen gets quite hot to the touch after 30min drives. Im looking to lower fan noise and keep my unit a bit cooler. Tx for any input @IamDefiler and @Arielnac and @tsbrewers and anybody else
Yes, I believe I had to do some soldering. That wasn't a big deal really, but I did have to cut away some of the aluminum grill that was covering the old fan, this was probably the worst part. From there, it took some tinkering to mount the fan, I believe in my picture I used zip ties and then hot glue to seal up the fan so the air would all be directed in to the head unit. Overall it was a little bit of a pain to do, but I would do again in a heartbeat. the fan is much quieter, I am assuming it pushes much more air too. I only hear it if the radio is muted. I now also have it running anytime the radio is on since it is much quieter.
I haven't checked the temp of the screen since doing it, but I did notice it got hot before too. I haven't noticed that anymore, but I haven't been playing with it as much lately either.
tsbrewers Since reading about the fan noise, I cant unhear the fan noise when there is no misuc playing
In my perfect world, I would have everything needed to do the mod before taking the unit out. Could you tell more about the "cut away some of the aluminum grill" part, tools needed etc? ¶Seems like @Arielnac used some kind of string to hold it, not zip ties vs strings..
Did you put some kind of dampnening material between the fan and the casing? I was thinking some rubber, or maybe some foam. For the soldering, I will use Solder Seal Wire Connectors from aliexpress. Will be my first time soldering some connection
JhonnyD Looking at PWM modules, I guess id have to have the physical knob sticking out of my dash somewhere to adjust the speed right? Or, maybe an app to control the fan speed via HU temps!?
A bit stressed about the mod, but I know it will be worth it to have a more silent unit, with better temps controls as a bonus. Thanks everyone for the inputs, more newbs like me will feel confident to make the jmp by themselves
this is a picture from above to show what we mean. The housing is aluminum and should be fairly easy to cut, a dremel with a cutout wheel and a grinder would do a nice job. Then the soldering is just the wires for the fan. I would use an iron and heat shrink tubing, I have never used the solder seal connectors, though if they work, that's fine.
Mounting the fan is up to you. I got a little carried away cutting away the aluminum grill so I didn't have much meat left to use screws or the rubber mounts that came with my fan. if it is tight, no need to use any dampner material, I used the hot glue to simply seal up the airflow.
tsbrewers Ok, now I "see" better how you did it, removed the round central part. Thats a bit scary from my inexperienced pt of view. I think I will have to remove the unit 1st and evaluate if I could do it.
Thanks again for the input
FreeSpoutti no problem, there are a few tricky things too like undoing the ribbon cables when you taking it apart, but it is doable if you take your time and be careful. Looking at the pictures above, I am not sure if anyone else cut the fan grill out or not. They might have left it, but to me it would really cut down on the air flow if you left it.